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HomeHotel and City Blogs › United States Blogs › South Carolina Blogs › Myrtle Beach Blog › French influence


French influence



Chef Eric Masson 

Family oriented

With a couple thousand restaurants, the Grand Strand area has a lot of chefs. At least half of those chefs grew up somewhere else before deciding they wanted to work and live at the beach.

So here at the Carolina coast we have plenty of eager young chefs ready to make their grill marks on the world and then surf on Sundays and Mondays. We also have a robust quota of "retired" chefs who want only part-time prep jobs so they can play golf the rest of the day.

But once in a while our chef-transplants are adults looking for warmer qualities of lives for their families. An even rarer culinary animal is the established talented chef who buys a restaurant, improves the restaurant, lays plans to expand the restaurant and immediately embraces community events and charities. And the food coming out of the kitchen is consistently excellent. And said chef and his family are extremely friendly and interesting people.

Eric and Kimberlee Masson are the new owners of The Brentwood Restaurant in Little River. Since buying the historic 1910 house/restaurant with its beautifully quirky rooms in fall 2007, they and their children, 6-year-old Jolee and 3-year-old Remy, have established lives full of work, school and lessons.

The kids take lessons, and their dad is going to start teaching them. He's qualified.

Credentialed

Eric Masson grew up in Brittany in Northern France, and remembers a childhood filled with fresh flavors like escargot his uncle harvested from the backyard garden and prepared by the dozen with butter and garlic. He graduated from the Culinary Institute of Brest in Brest, France, and then earned a professional hotel cuisine designation from the Professional Lycee "Les Sorbets" in Noirmoutiers, France. In 1992 he capped off the formal education with an equivalent to a bachelor's degree in Paris.

Between the second and third schools the young chef spent time working in London, England at a brasserie, and then after the final graduation was executive chef and manager for five years at a restaurant called Le Quincampe in Paris. Masson's next stint was at a chalet restaurant in the French Alps, but while he was on vacation in Paris, his ascension in French culinary ranks was interrupted. By a vivacious blonde.

Eric met Kimberlee, who was from Amsterdam, New York, while they were both on vacation in Paris. They maintained a long-distance relationship for months, but eventually they could not stay apart. Eric moved to New York, they married and the newlyweds managed Ferrandi's Restaurant in Amsterdam for six years. It was a hit, and was named Best French Restaurant three years in a row by a local publication.

The next leap was to Saratoga Springs, New York, to run the Saratoga Lake Inn & Bistro, an idyllic lakefront location in a historic building. Judging by the number of printed articles published about them - all raving about Chef Masson's food - the three years the couple spent there made diners extremely happy. Also during this period the chef participated in a March of Dimes Chef Auction, and the event included an Iron Chef-style culinary competition which Chef Masson won. The next year some of his blue cheese recipes were featured in Wine Enthusiasts magazine.

But that party came to an end when their landlord decided to build a $75 million resort on the property. French cuisine was out, condos were in.

Time for a change

After a year spent opening a restaurant in Albany, the family decided to check out possibly moving to Myrtle Beach. Kimberlee's family vacationed here every October for years, and they liked the thought of their children not being cooped up in the house all winter.

The Brentwood was available, they thought the circa 1910 building was perfect for fulfilling their dreams and ambitions, the financing worked out and there they are: The Massons are the proud owners of a beautiful old house turned into a French restaurant. It has a pretty yard for weddings - there's even a gazebo - and a gorgeous wraparound front porch perfect for photos.

Inside not a lot has changed from when the Stublicks operated The Brentwood for 13 years, but one significant difference is that the upstairs has been turned into a wine bar.

They know wines

Locals are learning the wine bar is a comfortably fantastic place to hang out on Friday and Saturday nights. When you go, be sure to check out the rare African striped mahogany wood on one wall.

There's a lot going on with wine at The Brentwood, because the Massons enjoy it a lot.  The wine list has expanded to include more than 100 bottles, and several are offered by the glass. Chef Eric says he strives to include vintages from around the world.

Monthly wine dinners are planned for members of their Wine Club when the chef will create a multi-course meal, and members will bring bottles of wine to match the theme. Annual Wine Club memberships cost $20 for singles and $35 for couples, and you also get a Riedel wine glass. You have to be a member to attend the dinners, and the next one is Monday, March 31.

Revamped menu

Chef Masson believes in procuring fresh local produce and natural meats. His kitchen does not contain a fryer, and he takes pride in producing healthy fare.

Some menu items locals have come to cherish through the years remain, like Prime Rib, and Chicken Brentwood filled with fresh spinach and sautéed mushrooms and served with Mornay sauce.

But there are new delights.

All diners receive a complimentary amuse bouche (French for "amuse the mouth̶ ;) of olive tapenade made with minced green and black olives, roasted red peppers, garlic and olive oil. Spread on small crunchy baguette toasts, the treat fills your mouth with subtle saltiness and fresh flavor layers.

This can be followed up with hors d'oeuvres such as peppercorn-studded Pate de Campagne, Mussells Chardonnay and Escargot just like the chef's uncle used to make it. The appetizer list also contains influences from second-in-command Chef Robert Kirby, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, including Fried Green Tomatoes and Blue Crab Ravioli.

Some of Chef Masson's entrée specialties, which come with salad and fresh vegetables, are The Lake and The Turf (duck breast with cranberry sauce and roasted New Zealand rack of lamb with Cabernet reduction); Filet au Poivre (with black peppercorn and cognac sauce); and Coquilles St. Jacques Cardinale (Dover sea scallops and blue crab ravioli with lobster sauce, asparagus and rice pilaf). Also offered is Shrimp and Scallops Chardonnay, which features shrimp and scallops in leek fondue and "finished with Chardonnay and a splash of cream, served over angel hair pasta." This was the dish with which he won the Iron Chef-style competition.

A fixed price (prix fixe) menu is also available.

For $29 without wine or $44 with wine, the menu includes a choice of three entrees, the house Salad Maison with Miso Vinaigrette, a choice between three entrees and the pick of two desserts.

Desserts also cover a variety of tastes, from the Key Lime Pie that Southerners adore to French Fondant au Chocolat that's firm dark chocolate cake on the outside with a soft rich inside, served with raspberry sauce.

The rest of the story

And there is more, but we will tell you another day about the Sunday brunch and the special wine bar menu and what they're going to grow in the kitchen garden. And Chef Masson's personal mission to get people drinking more champagne, and how one time he made Crepes Suzette for 300 and practically burned off his eyebrows. He's also going to start offering cooking classes, and we'll be sure to let you know when you can sign up.

The Brentwood Restaurant is at 4269 Luck Ave., 1 block west of U.S. 17, in Little River. They're open for dinner from 5 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays, and Sunday brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. In March hours will be extended to include Monday evenings, this summer they'll start opening for lunch.

The number is (843) 249-2601.




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