You'll travel through rooms and halls decorated with gingerbread houses and wreaths of candy, along with Christmas trees (of course). Then you'll come to the trains--traveling through and around evergreen displays, waterfalls and 750,000 lights over 10,000 square feet of space. The ladybug train is a perennial favorite of kids everywhere. Trains even travel high overhead, along bridges and passageways. Best of all, it snows inside, thanks to a machine that delivers softly falling bubble clusters.

 Over the summer the Railroad Garden features mini versions of national landmarks, built out of natural materials like acorns and pinecones and plants and placed within the natural settings and trains. The Wonderland Express, however, is all about Chicago. You'll find an entire skyline's worth of Chi-Town places, like Buckingham Fountain, the Sears Tower and the John Hancock building. The Bean (otherwise known as the Cloud Gate sculpture) is here, along with Soldier Field, some of the stores along the Mag Mile, and even the Garden's own Shoin House.

 Adjacent to the exhibit is a room where kids can participate in crafts, such as making cranberry and popcorn wreaths for birds to chew on. Naturally, there's a little snack and gift shop here too, full of trains and Christmas treats. If your child is a Thomas the Tank Engine fan, they've taken Thomas, Annie and Clarabel and set them on a track high above the Garden Cafe, so you can eat while watching Thomas circle the room.

 The Wonderland Express is but a small part of the Garden; you can get through it in an hour. The cost is $10 for adults, $8 for kids between 3-12 and seniors. Tuesdays, however, are free until Dec. 18. The cost is in addition to the cost of getting into the park, which is technically free but there's a $15 per car parking fee. The Wonderland Express is open every day through January 6 from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

 The Chicago Botanic Garden is located at 1000 Lake Cook Road in Glencoe, about 20 miles north of the city. From Chicago, take I-94W (the Edens Expressway) and U.S. 41 to Lake Cook Road and turn east (right). Drive 1/2 mile to the entrance. On weekends the trolley is available from the Glencoe Metra stop; the trolley also runs daily during Dec. 26-Jan. 6. For additional information or to buy advance tickets, go to www.chicago-botanic.org.

Navy Pier's Halloween Celebration includes Demons of the Deep and Ghostly Gardens. You can experience Demons Mild or Demons Wild, depending on your age (8 and above for Mild, 13 and older for Wild). The tents at Demons of the Deep will allow visitors to enter and find their way through a salvage facility that houses the remains of angry spirits, unwillingly recovered from watery graves. To get there, you've got to go through Shock on the Dock, a free series of scenes and live characters that will cross your path.

Ghostly Gardens at the Pepsi Skyline Stage is more kid friendly, where young ones can participate in lots of fun activities. Catch the Eerie Express haunted train ride, where ghost Edward Eerie shows you around his magical estate. Play inflatable games such as the spider climb, have your faces painted, get fortunes told and read and play along with the new Dragon Daze Adventure. Catch live entertainment on the Ghostly Gardens Theatre Stage (provided by Navy Pier's own magicians, singers and other performers). There's also a variety showcase with marionettes and juggling and other fun, plus strolling characters. New this year is Dr. Puupenschthink's Looney Laboratory, an interactive comedy show featuring a mad scientist who's trying to figure out the human brain. Also new is the Monster Bash, a musical celebration of Halloween with Navy Pier's mascot Patch the Pirate Dog and the Dock Street Singers.

All of Navy Pier has been transformed--even the Ferris wheel has been renamed to the "Scare-Us" Wheel and the carousel is now the Galloping Ghosts carousel. So don't miss out!

This event does cost: $14 will get you general admission to Demons of the Deep, $19 includes Demons and three rides at FEAR Park. Ghostly Gardens costs $9 apiece, with $16 getting you into all attractions, face painting, temporary tattoos and three rides. However, if you go to the http://www.navypier.com Web site, you can find coupons for $4 off Demons of the Deep and $3 off Ghostly Gardens. Ghostly Gardens is open from 11-7 p.m. tonight, and 11-8 p.m. on Oct. 31; Demons Mild is open 4-8 p.m. today and tomorrow; Demons Wild is open 8-10 p.m. both days.

Be prepared to grapple with crowds--Navy Pier gets eight million visitors a year and sometimes it feels like they're all there at the same time. But don't forget that Navy Pier has a lot to offer besides Navy Fear, including the Shakespeare Theater, IMAX Theater, the Chicago Children's Museum, dinner cruises and great restaurants like Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. and Riva. Even McDonald's has a berth here, for families. There's some shopping, as well, which is actually the least interesting part of Navy Pier, and I've had friends who met with some snotty salespeople (one actually told my friend she was too fat to fit anything in the store). You can buy funny ties at Y-Knot, or collect refrigerator magnets, visit the Build-A-Bear Workshop, or pick up some fresh, warm, roasted nuts (yummy!).

I hate parking at Navy Pier. In fact, because of the parking (the lot is expensive and often full) and the crowds I avoid Navy Pier except when it has interesting events like this one. So save yourself the aggravation and take public transportation. Get off the CTA at the Red Line Grand stop and either walk it or take a cab. Or you can grab one of the buses: #29 State, #65 Grand, #66 Chicago or #124 Navy Pier Express. Navy Pier is located at 600 E. Grand Ave., in the Streeterville neighborhood.

Opening night is October 12, and the festival kicks off at 5 p.m. with two performances from Midnight Circus. The Haunted Village is open Mondays-Wednesdays from 11 a.m.-3 p.m., and Thursdays-Sundays from 11 a.m.-8 p.m. On Wednesday, Oct. 31, the Haunted Village is open from 11-8 p.m. Midnight Circus performances take place each day at 11:30 a.m., 12:30 p.m. and 2 p.m., with a 5:30 p.m. and a 7 p.m. show Thursdays-Sundays. On Saturdays and Sundays, except for Oct. 20, free pumpkin decorating is offered. Storytelling happens at 4 p.m. and 6:15 p.m. Thursdays-Sundays.

The festival will also feature a Halloween parade on Saturday, Oct. 20. Kids in costumes can all join in the The State Street Halloween Happening Parade at noon, beginning at the corner of State and Randolph Streets. Afterwards, there will be a costume contest, trick-or-treating and a performance from Midnight Circus.

The Chicagoween festival is free, except for food you might like to purchase. Daley Plaza is located at 50 W. Washington St. (the intersection of Washington and Dearborn). It's best reached by CTA; get off at the Red Line stop at Washington, or the Brown, Purple, Orange and Green Lines stop at State/Lake. For more information, go to http://www.chicagoween.us.

 Update: Please note that the haunted "L" ride has been cancelled this year.

This little hole in the wall restaurant hasn't changed in decades. It's still frequented by locals, tourists and writers. It still doesn't serve French fries. The employees still yell out "Cheezborger, cheezborger, cheezborger," and they still don't serve Pepsi. They've had Schlitz beer on tap for longer than most of us have been alive. The Billy Goat Tavern is a mecca of local color, too. On the walls you'll find a Wall of Fame with photos and articles, featuring famous customers, criminals and the late Sianis himself.

The atmosphere is genuine, vintage Chicago, and if you want to get a real feel for the city, you'll want to stop here. As for the food-it isn't the best burger you'll ever have, but it's pretty darn good. Let them talk you into a double cheeseburger and forget your arteries for the day. The experience is worth it. There's a full bar, a VIP room and a very basic tables and chairs setup. It's nothing fancy, yet it's not to be missed. And it gets pretty packed at lunchtime, so be warned.

The Billy Goat Tavern is located on lower Michigan Avenue and can be easily missed, since you have to descend stairs to actually get to it. Keep an eye out when you're walking just north of the Chicago River, and you'll see the sign. The address is 430 N. Michigan Ave. (the Chicago Tribune tower is at 435 N. Michigan Ave.). Parking is difficult here, whether paid or street, so take public transportation if possible. A cab is a great choice; the closest Red Line CTA stop is at Grand.

If you want to see the future of comedy, The Second City is the place to be. Many of these players will go on to become famous--you just wait and see. In the meantime, you can watch them performing smart, original improv comedy that's political, universal and a lot of fun. The theater actually holds two stages: The Second City Mainstage, which seats almost 300, and The Second City e.t.c., which holds 180. Each of these stages has a resident troupe that writes and performs its comedy revue. The main stage is a two-tier, caberet-style venue with not a bad seat in the house. While you're waiting to get inside, you can check out the collection of autographs in the lobby area from celebrity alumnae.

The current mainstage show is its 94^th revue, titled "Between Barack and a Hard Place," and e.t.c. is featuring "The Pratfall of Civilization." The Second City is located at 1616 N. Wells St. Chicago, in the Piper's Alley building. From I90/94, Exit onto North Ave and go east to Wells St. Turn left on Wells. There are parking lots  (you'll have to pay a fee up to $15) at the Treasure Island parking lot and at the Piper's Alley self-park garage. For more information, go to http://www.secondcity.com/?id=theatres/chicago.

Pizzeria Uno's (and Duo)
29 E. Ohio and 619 N. Wabash, Chicago

As many people now know, this is the home of the Chicago pizza. Founder Ike Sewell introduced the deep-dish pie in the 1940s and it became identified with the city. Because this is a national chain, you may have been introduced to Chicago-style pizza by way of Unos in other cities-but this one's the original. Service can be slow and the aisles are crowded, but the atmosphere is loud and great and you can always step over to the larger, but very similar, Pizzeria Duo instead. The thick cheese and the densely crunchy crust and the juicy toppings are all worth the wait. Check out directions and info at http://www.unos.com/.

Gino's East
162 E. Superior St., Chicago

The crispy polenta crust and delicious sauce make for a classic Chicago-style pizza here, at a large, tourist-friendly restaurant that's often packed. I always forget how much I like Gino's pizza until I have one, but there's a reason these pies are legendary. They send their pizzas around the world, too. To order, visit http://www.ginoseast.com.

Edwardo's
1212 N. Dearborn St., Chicago

This small, crowded restaurant place packs a big punch with fresh ingredients and a casual vibe. It's always crowded and is not as well known as some of the others on this list, but it's also inexpensive. The sauce is tasty, too. Consider it the place to go if you're doing the Mag Mile and need a little break with a lot of nourishment for the shopping ahead. Go to http://www.edwardos.com/ for more.

Lou Malnati's
439 N. Wells, Chicago

I do love these pizzas. The signature Lou Malnati's crust is deliciously buttery and crispy and flaky. The sauce is sweet and zesty, full of fresh tomatoes. The sausage is good too (the pepperoni not as good).  If you like the pizzas, you can FedEx them around the country so others can try it too. This is one pizza every Chicago visitor should taste. Go to http://www.loumalnatis.com/ for more info.

Bella Bacino's or Bacino's Pizza
75 E. Wacker Dr. or 2204 N. Lincoln Ave., Chicago

Bacino's is probably my least favorite of the Chicago-style stalwarts, probably because the atmosphere is the least exciting, but many people--both tourists and locals--love the place. And I can't deny the spinach pizza is excellent. I don't go out of my way to eat spinach on my pizza but...well, what do I know anyway? Go to http://www.bacinos.com for more information (note that this site features Bella Bacino's, an Italian eatery, as well as Bacino's pizza places). I'm still not buying that their pizza is heart-healthy, though.

Now, go try them all and tell me which one you like best.

Mitchell Museum of the American Indian
3001 Central St. Evanston

If you're interested in the history and culture of North American Native peoples, definitely make a stop here. This well-organized museum's collection begins in the Paleo-Indian period and goes on right through the present day. The permanent exhibitions showcase Native American cultures all over the continent. Each gallery also includes a touch table so visitors can touch Indian artifacts and materials used by Native Americans. You'll be able to see traditional and contemporary dolls, beadwork, baskets, weavings, Kachinas, prints and carvings from different tribes and eras. Every Saturday at 10:30 the museum sponsors a kids' crafts sessions. Starting in late September the temporary exhibits will be: "Stories in Stone" and the photographic "Rosebud Sioux: A Lakota People in Transition." Go to www.mitchellmuseum.org for more information.

The Oriental Institute of the University of Chicago
1155 East 58^th Street, Chicago

This research organization and museum is dedicated to the study of the ancient Near East. It has permanent galleries devoted to artifacts, photographs, excavation records and other items from ancient Egypt, Nubia, Persia, Mesopotamia, Syria, Anatolia and the ancient site of Megiddo. Its current exhibition is "Daily Life Ornamented: The Medieval Persian City of Rayy," which showcases the 12^th  to 14^th century artistic traditions of an Islamic City which once sat where Tehran is now. It was renowned for glazed ceramics and for being a trade crossroads. Upcoming in November is "European Cartographers and the Ottoman World 1500-1750: Maps from the Collection of O.J. Sopranos" (part of the Festival of Maps Chicago celebration). The museum also hosts free films every Sunday, plus family programs and other events throughout the year.  It is open Tuesdays through Sundays and a suggested donation is $5 for adults and $2 for kids under 12. For more information, go to oi.uchicago.edu.

Block Museum of Art at Northwestern University
40 Arts Circle Drive, Evanston

The permanent collection here includes prints and drawings by European artists from printmaking's inception. You can see works from Parmigianino, Dürer and Rembrandt, JMW Turner and Daumier here, among others. The museum also houses more modern print milestones, with work from artists like Max Beckmann, Jasper Johns and Kiki Smith. The photography collection is also fantastic, with a large number of photos documenting American life from the 1940s to the present. You can also see the architectural drawings of Chicago architects Walter Burley Griffin and Marion Mahoney, textiles by Theo Leffman, and a sculpture garden with pieces from Jean Arp, Joán Miró and Henry Moore. In late September the special exhibit will be "Casting A Shadow: Creating the Alfred Hitchcock Film." Go to www.blockmuseum.northwestern.edu for additional information.

American Toby Jug Museum
910 Chicago Ave, Evanston

This unique museum is available by appointment only. On display you'll find over 6,000 Toby and Character jugs and teapots. What are Toby jugs, you ask? Well, they date from the 1760s and still incredibly popular after a 19^th century revival by a company called Doulton. At first they were full figures of people (the first was named Toby, of course), but in the 1930s they became just faces. A few years later the first jug was created with features based on a real person. Today the huge collection of ceramic vessels includes characters, politicians, literary figures, athletes, entertainers and historical figures. Among them: Harry Potter, Spiderman, Star Wars characters, Miss Piggy and rare jugs from the Royal Doulton collection. You can reach the museum at 877-862-9687. Admission is free.

Chinese-American Museum of Chicago
238 West 23^rd Street, Chicago

This relatively new offering to Chicago's cultural life features exhibits about the rich heritage of Chinese history and culture in the Midwest. The tiny, two-story museum is meant to act as a record of history for Chinatown, and to be a voice for the community. The items housed here include papier-mache dioramas from a San Francisco artist, photographs and other objects. The current exhibitions, which run for the next two weekends, are "Chinatown History and Archaeology" and "Two World Fairs: The Untold Asian Story." Like I say, this is a small organization and needs support--but it's growing, which means it's an interesting opportunity to see a museum in the making. The museum is open on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays with a suggested donation of $2. Make it part of your trip to Chinatown and check out the Web site at www.chinatown-museum-foundation.org.

This is the oldest event of its kind in the country, and attracts around two million--you heard that right--people to the lakefront from Fullerton Avenue to the Oak Street Beach. It's completely free, and a Chicago tradition not to be missed. North Avenue Beach is the best place to see everything (that's where Herb Hunter does his commentary), but people will be lined up at all sorts of places from lakeside restaurants and pubs to tour boats. You'll find all kinds of party packages if you look, or you can just show up on the beach and claim a spot. But take note. Wherever you go, it'll be packed. I'd recommend looking into party packages at the Navy Pier rooftop. A more exclusive place to view the festivities is Cité, the pricey restaurant on the 70^th floor of the Lake Point Towers.

The absolute best way to do the Air & Water show is by boat. If you don't have one of your own (and let's face it, most of us don't), you still have some good options. For example, you can book a ride on one of the cruise ships that leave from Navy Pier; Odyssey Cruises, for example, will have an early brunch cruise and an afternoon cruise on those days. If you're a little more adventurous, consider taking a $50 trip with Kayak Chicago from Montrose Harbor. They're booking three-hour tours starting at 1 p.m.

The show's participants this year include the U.S. Air Force Thunderbirds, The U.S. Army Parachute Team Golden Knights, The Firebirds, the Red Baron Pizza Squadron, the AeroShell Aerobatic Team, the Lima Lima Flight Team and pilot Sean Tucker with Team Oracle. The Shell Extreme Water Show will include some amazing acrobatics and incredible pro freestyle stunts from the Liquid X Freestyle water show and the Munson Ski and InboardWater Sports Ski Show Team.

Don't expect to get here easily by car. Public transportation is the best way to get downtown this weekend whether you're coming to the show or not. The Red Line will take you there; bus routes 156 and 151 get close too. The 49^th Annual Chicago Air & Water Show runs both days this weekend August 18 and 19, from 9 a.m. (when the water show starts; the air show begins at 11 a.m.) to 4 p.m.  For more information, go to the City of Chicago Web site.

The menu is fantastic.  Features include traditional Cuban food with pork and seafood in the spotlight, and awesome mojitos.  There are daily specials, and the ever popular "Taste of Cuba" which boasts samples of the most popular dishes.

You can come with a big group and hang out at the bar, occasionally there is live Cuban music on a small stage in the front of the restaurant.  For your wintertime needs, there is a fireplace in the bar so you can stay toasty.    Cafe LaGuardia is actually a little famous as well, as it was featured on "Tasty Travels" with Rachael Ray on the Food Network as well as the local Chicago show "Check Please!"

Cafe LaGuardia is easily accesible by car, and parking is plentiful in the neighborhood.  Taxis are easy to catch getting out there, but getting back into downtown can be tricky.  You can take public transit by using the Armitage bus (#73) or the Blue Line El to the Western stop.

Michigan Avenue:  This one is a no-brainer.  Start at Michigan and Delaware and just walk south to Millenium Park.  On your way you will pass the Water Tower, which is the only building in the downtown area that didn't burn down in the great fire.  You will pass three different malls: Water Tower Place (at Chestnut), 900 N. Michigan, and Westfield.  You will pass the beautiful and historic Chicago Tribune building with its flying butresses, and the Wrigley Building with its clock tower.  You will pass the John Hancock building, which is slightly reminiscent of the Sears Tower.  You will pass flagship stores for the Gap, Banana Republic, Pottery Barn, Tiffany & Co., Salvatore Ferragamo, Coach, Zegna, and Apple.  Then, you cross the Chicago river.  When you get to Millenium park, take a rest break and check out Cloudgate (or as the locals refer to it "the Bean"), and the cool tower fountains that feature moving faces...that spit!   

The River Walk:  You can take a set of stairs at Michigan and Columbus and get down to the Chicago River Walk.  This is a beautiful path that runs next to the river.  It is complete with benches and shade trees.  It's kind of hidden, too, so the foot traffic is light.  You can watch the tour boats as they pass and people watch on the bridges above.

Washington Street from Michigan to Clark: This is a short one, but after you stop by Millenium park, take Washington street west.  On your walk, you will pass State street shopping, the historic Hotel Burnham (home of the Atwood Cafe - YUMMY!), and two outdoor art pieces.  In front of the Daley center, at Washington and Dearborn, there is a large Picasso.  It kind of looks like a dog, but it's Picasso, so it's difficult to say what it is for sure.  Across the street, next to the County Court building and the Chicago Temple Methodist Church, there is a large Miro and a really cool curvy wooden bench.  If it's a Sunday, you can go into the Chicago Temple and take a free tour of the sky chapel.  The Chicago Temple is Chicago's oldest downtown church, boasting an interesting juxtaposition of church on the ground floor and top floor, sandwiching dozens of floors of office space in between.  Just up Clark Street in front of the Thompson Center, there is another large outdoor art piece in black and white.  Bring your camera - the photo ops are endless!

If you have nice weather when you are here, by all means, take advantage of it.  Take a walk!