Learn to Surf in the OC: What to Know Before you Go!
"Do you know how to surf?" Being a beach friendly California native, this is often the first thing people ask me. Yes, yes I do know how to surf (for the past 10 or so years) and if you are visiting this great place called Orange County, here are some pointers on how to get in the water with a board and enjoy our beautiful beaches.
First of all Orange County is a great place to learn to surf for the first time! The water is usually warm, there are lifeguards on duty at most beaches, I've personally come in close contact with dolphins several times and in the summer the waves are usually tame and the rip-currents often non-existent. I highly encourage anyone who can easily swim 100 yards in a pool (without stopping) to try this quintessential California sport.
Know Before You Go!
1) Check the water temperature and wave reports Surfline is a great place to do this. Your first time out in the water on a surfboard you do not want to be stuck in huge dangerous waves or freezing water temperatures without a wetsuit! However, some waves are necessary for surfing so a surf report of at least 2-3 feet is ideal if you are using a longboard, anything consistently over 5-6 feet will be difficult to learn how to surf for the first time.
2) Respect the locals. There are several world-class surfers residing in Orange County, many professional and semi-professionals are out in the water day in and day out. Being safe and not getting in their way will ensure a great time out in the ocean. The best way to stay out of someone's way is to:
1) Be aware of where you are paddling out. Do your best not to paddle out right where the surfers are riding the waves. A little to the left or right of where the waves are breaking will be an easier paddle and you won't be run over by someone.
2) Once you paddle out do not sit directly behind someone who is also waiting for a wave (unless it is super crowded - which may not be an ideal place/time to learn). If you are right behind a surfer when he turns around to paddle for a wave he will be headed straight for you and moving fast.
3) If there is someone paddling for a wave, try not to get in his or her way and do not take the wave from them. Waves are surfed in the direction that they break. If the surfer paddling for the wave is 'upstream' from you or closer to the point where the wave started breaking, then the rule is that the wave belongs to him or her, if you take the wave that's called dropping in (not cool).
3) Black-ball, Water quality and Lifeguards: Durring the summer in Orange County the lifeguards often post a 'black-ball' flag. This mostly occurs in the afternoon and you will find a yellow flag with a large black dot in the middle. That means no more surfing is allowed at that spot. Newport Beach is often black-balled in the afternoon to allow for swimmers, boogie boarders and tourists to enjoy the water. Water quality can be an issue in Southern California. Typically the water quality decreases after a rain storm but some beaches are consistently better than others. You can check water quality of local surf spots here: OC Beach Info. Always listen to the lifeguards, some have multiple decades of experience working at these beaches and can tell if you are beginning to drift in a rip current or are simply too close to a pier, swimmers or rocks to be safe.
4) Where to rent a board: I suggest renting both a board and a wetsuit. Often in the summer the water is warm enough to go without a wetsuit, but I would check with the guys at the shop since the Pacific Ocean can be very cold, even in Orange County. As far as boards go most beginners should start with foam board or soft-top board of at least 8 feet. The taller you are and the more you weigh the larger a board you should go with... ie anyone over 150lbs should try a 9 or 10 foot board. Best places to rent a board: Zack's In Huntington (you can also sign up for a lesson with them!), The 15th Street Surf Shop (Newport Beach, best price for all day rentals), Costa Azul in Laguna Beach, Lessons for all ages and group lessons available. If you have any more great shops you want me to add to this list, leave a comment - thanks!
5) Some Favorite Beginner Beaches:
Newport Beach between Newport Pier and the first jetty: Plenty of great places to eat nearby and bring quarters for parking. This is where the University of California, Irvine hosts their beginner surf classes. This is also where I take friends wanting to test out the sport of surfing for the first time, generally this is a great place to learn.
Huntington Beach, North side of the pier (if you are facing the pier, the right-hand side is a great place to surf). The other side of the pier, the south side, can be very difficult to surf or even paddle out through the double-breaking wave (reform). But if you are interested in catching a contest, this is where several surf contests are held including the US Open.
Bolsa Chica, (North Huntington Beach) a great little wave and on a sunny day a wonderful beach to enjoy. Fee for beach parking $10.
Doheny, (Dana Point) Though the entry for this beach is a little rocky and steep an advanced beginner will really appreciate the slow moving, long breaking waves. Doheny also has volleyball courts and places to BBQ. Fee for beach parking $10.
Thalia Street, (Laguna Beach) Though more of an advanced beginner wave, being a little tricky to ride and sometimes crowded this spot is one of the most rewarding and beautiful places to learn between Newport Beach and Dana Point. Just hike down the stairs at the end of Thalia street to the beach. Note that on a large 5-foot+ day this is not a good place to learn and there may not be a lifeguard on duty in the area.
