Fred 62 retro-kitsch diner
At 4am, it’s hard to find quality cuisine in Los Angeles. Then again, at 4am not much tastes better than grilled ham and melted cheddar on sourdough, or “the Charles Bukowski,” in Fred 62 talk. So when our waitress, who looked 40 but dressed and acted 20, showed up wearing too much lipstick and a skin-tight shirt that read “Jesus is our dishwasher,” it took me more than a few moments to see the humor. A self-proclaimed “retro-kitsch” diner, it’s edgy and a bit raunchy, but a perfect match for the evolving new neighborhood just blocks from Little Armenia.
As a 24-hour diner, their forte lies in their griddle. Pancakes are plate sized, sweet and fluffy. Silver dollar pancakes are displayed in a ring around a small dish of syrup. Waffles are light with a crusty outside and a steamy inside. And the French toast is amazing!…er…sometimes. The first time I ordered the popular “Bearded Mr. Frenchy,” I fell in love. Six pieces of French toast rolled liberally in cornflakes were delicately flavored with hints of cinnamon. They looked like powdered sugar dusted hash browns. The texture was superb with a great crunch from the cornflakes and just enough bread to soak up the puddles of buttery maple syrup on my plate. But when I ordered the same dish on another occasion, it came out as three monstrously thick slices of bread with only a handful of cornflakes. I asked my spunky teenage waitress if they had changed the way they prepare this dish and she replied casually that it depends on the cook.
With prices ranging from 7 to 13 for breakfast, it’s a bit expensive for an everyday place. And the food can be a letdown. But it can also be very tasty. Maybe that’s why I keep returning. I never know how the evening will end. But between the flirty waitresses, the provocative shirts, the drab booths and the food that keeps you guessing it’s a guaranteed experience that you will remember. And there’s something in that. Fred 62 – 1850 N. Vermont Ave., L.A., 323.667.0062
www.fred62.com
