Big Dogs of Phoenix Bar-B-Que
What, and who, makes the best barbeque is often a hotly debated topic. In the Valley, two of the more popular names in the debate are Hap's Pit Barbeque and Joe's Real BBQ. People line up to lunch on their wonderfully tender meats served in cool, casual atmospheres. That's where the similarities end.
Hap's Pit Barbeque is a native Phoenician born in a home built smoker atop the frame of an old GMC truck parked on the southeast corner of 24th St. and Jefferson in front of Dan Darroch Sr.'s used car lot. The prevalence of brown paper bags suggests to the uninitiated that this is a fast food type joint. Although service is swift and to-go orders are common, nothing could be farther from the truth.
All of Hap's signature meats (pork, beef, chicken and lamb) are massaged with their signature blend rub then s...l...o...w cooked over low heat producing meat so tender chewing seems optional. In fact, I expended more effort keeping the sauce off my nose and chin while eating a pulled pork sandwich than I did chewing it. The flavor, however, is worth savoring, so resist the temptation to just wolf it down. Nothing stood out in the flavor of the coleslaw, but the irregular sizes of the pieces of cabbage and carrot gave it a good texture that went well with a sandwich.
Since the first Hap's sign appeared in 1990, word of mouth has led to larger and larger crowds. Added to Dan Jr.'s desire to pursue a culinary career rather than be a used car salesman, and more permanent digs, first at 32nd Ave. and Indian School Rd., then, more recently at 48th St. and Washington (on the light rail route) were established. In fact, the restaurant at 4801 E. Washington is so popular, even in the middle of a construction zone, the original trailer setup at 24th St. and Jefferson is closing. Don't worry, the Washington St. location continues the "eating in a garage" feel loyal customers love with concrete floors and steel seating. The addition of air conditioning just makes dining in any Monday through Saturday bearable throughout the year. Hap's is also a popular caterer and can often be found pleasing crowds at Valley events.
The brainchild of Joe Johnston and Time Peelen, Joe's Real BBQ is a modernized piece of Arizona history. The building on the corner of Gilbert Rd. and Page Ave. has been a local landmark since it was built in 1929, but the food served inside is based on recipes and wisdom gleaned from Texas BBQ joints then given an Arizona twist. Meats are cooked in Oyler pits using Arizona-grown pecan wood until they are tender and so moist that sauce is hardly needed.
Joe's operates on a cafeteria-type model, with patrons passing along a glass-shielded water table filled with side dishes ranging from corn to beans to (Tim's special recipe) mac'n'cheese. The pulled pork and beef brisket sandwiches are heaping servings of meat with just enough sauce to hold things together without soaking through the bun. Meat only meals are also available.
Seating, inside or out, is at long, family style tables often shared by more than one party. The most popular beverage is the homemade rootbeer, continuing the family feel. And desert is almost a must with wonderful lemon cake or brownies bringing out the kid in everyone. Joe's takes being part of the Gilbert family seriously, offering free lunches and dinners, announced only by a banner strung over Gilbert Rd., to residents and lucky visitors.
NOTE: Joe's will be closed September 17 and 18, 2007 for kitchen remodeling. Otherwise, Joe's is open between 11 a.m. and 9 p.m. everyday.
Barbeque joints can be found throughout the metro area. Whether Hap's or Joe's or someplace else is The Best is a matter of personal taste. Both, however, are worth a visit. Maybe more than one.
