How Not to Get Ripped Off In Istanbul
So you've landed in this fabulous megapolis and you're looking forward to seeing the city in its full splendour; you're itching to get lost in the bazaars and curious about sidling up to the locals and sharing a tea and a chat. Basically, you are determined not to let anything stand in the way between you and having a fabulous time, but beware, as fascinating and beautiful as Istanbul may be, it is also a tourist trap par excellence and if you're not careful, you could end up parting with more cash than you really expected to. In order to avoid some of the typical tourist pitfalls, you should keep the following things in mind:
1) Use the Havas bus from the airport - The Airport itself is the first trap you will encounter. Always on the lookout for a fresh crop of foreigners, men in suits will offer you a service bus to your preferred destination. The pricetag for such a service, however, is rather exorbitant. The Havas is just as comfortable and only costs a few lira to most important destinations.
2) Don't eat in the touristy areas - While Sultanahmet may be great for sightseeing, its food is generally average and overpriced and for the price of an average meal here you can have a scrumptious dinner elsewhere. Try Beyoglu, where you can find everything from ultra-trendy restaurants to little kebab houses, often with little extras like tea thrown in for free.
3) Get on a local ferry - Lots of great places are accessible by ferry and you can enjoy the Bosphorus views at the same time. The Asian side of Istanbul is charming and not as touristy as the European side. The Prince's Islands are wonderful and provide a welcome relief from the noise of Istanbul as cars are forbidden. And at less than 2 lira a ticket, its a lot cheaper than the commercial tours.
4) Try the local bazaars - If you have parted with more cash than you really cared to at the Grande Bazaar, or if you just find the negotiating process too intimidating, try a local bazaar where the prices are geared more towards local customers. For something a little more low-key try Kadikoy on a Tuesday or a Thursday or Fatih on a Wednesday. They won't have the gold or carpets you would find at the Grande Bazaar but you may be able to find a Zara dress at a knock-down price or sample some delicious, fresh, seasonal produce.
5) Don't hire a tour guide - I'm constantly amazed at the number of people who think it is necessary to hire a guide to show them around Istanbul. Chances are your hotel will be in a central area with easy access to the major destinations and once you have found one, it is very easy to find the rest. Tour guides are often kept on some sort of retainer to bring people into shops where they feel pressured to buy. If you want information, ask a local who can speak English. Locals are usually more than willing help and I would rather get lost occaisonally and ask for directions than be pressured to buy some overpriced item I didn't want in the first place.
6) Eat fish al-fresco - The seaside restaurants may have excellent fish dinners but the same fish is available in a sandwich from the fish purveyors on the water at Eminonu. Eat while watching the Bosphorus fishermen hauling in their next batch.
7) Beware of strangers - As I mentioned, locals are generally great when it comes to tourists but if you are a man travelling alone, beware of any Turkish man who offers to take you to his mate's bar. You could find yourself in a crowd of strangers footing a 500 lira bill. Your safest bet is to stay with a group so you won't be a target.
Check the taxi meter - There are two rates in Istanbul; a day rate and a night rate. Day rate is indicated by the word 'gunduz' and night rate is 'gece'. If you are travelling by day, make sure he is charging you a day rate. If you can't see the meter, ask the fare before you get in.
9) Go local - In recent years franchises, especially coffee franchises, have sprung up all over the city and in many cases local businesses have had to suffer the indignity of having their customers developing a preference for Gloria Jeans. It may be tempting to go with the familiar but remember that imported goods are lumped with huge taxes and franchises sell their food at prices you probably wouldn't pay at home. So skip the familiar and try a Turkish coffee instead. You may even have your fortune told.
10) Branch out - Istanbul is a massive city with lots of interesting areas to discover, most of which go virtually undetected by visitors. Don't be shy. Grab a guidebook or a copy of 'Time Out' in English and do some research. The best thing about going to places that are not on the typical tourist agenda is that you get to see more of the 'real' Istanbul and its people (and they will be happy to see you) and you won't be hassled by touts.
So enjoy your time in Istanbul but remember these few simple rules. Who knows? You may even save yourself enough money to come back again!
