Here listed is the celluloid Milano, the city of extremes --- the wealth and the squalor, the elegance and the violence, the black and the white.  Happily, a current cult craze (perhaps inspired by the popularity of Quentin Tarantino)  has now given these films international DVD releases!

1.  Miracle in Milan, directed by Vittorio DeSica, 1951.  With its bittersweet optimism and its flights of fancy, it's something of The Wizard of Oz--Italian style.  The renowned "neo-realist" of Italian cinema, famed for his documentary-style (The Bicycle Thief, Shoeshine),  carries his post-war street people over the rainbow and far beyond Milan's fantastic castle-balloon of a cathedral.  Simply put, one of cinema's greatest fantasies.

2.  Rocco and His Brothers, directed by Luchino Visconti, 1960.  A sprawling family saga bringing a poor mother and her sons up from the sunny south to a frostbitten, black-and-white Milan.  A great human epic about ready to knock on Bette Davis's backdoor.  This is soap opera art, the brothers are boxers, which, of course, is metaphoric -- with Simone Signoret doing Bette Davis.

3.  Almost Human (Milano Odio: La Polizia Non Può Sparare), directed by Umberto Lenzi, 1974.  Perhaps the most vicious police thriller ever made with the over-the-top Tomas Milian doing the sleaziest sadist in cinema history (he's a whiner as well).  Lenzi's direction is razor sharp --- the film seems sliced in fast motion.

4. Milano Violenta (Bloody Payroll or Commando Terror), directed by Mario Caiano, 1976.  A company robbery goes bad and a good-guy-turned-bad (Claudio Cassinelli) suffers for the rest of his life.  Cassinelli, usually cast as the good-looking good guy, gives a measured, seething, commanding performance, and the direction by Caiano captures Milan at the change of season --- cool, wet, gray, blurred edges to match the blurring of morality.

5.  Death Walks at Midnight, directed by Luciano Ercoli, 1972.  One of the loopiest of all the gialli  --- and that's saying something.  The Spanish spitfire, Susan Scott, witnesses a hallucinogenic murder because she's under the influence of a hallucinogen.  And that's just the beginning.  And just try guessing who the killer is....  Fast-paced, colorful kitsch that seems to make love to its loopiness. 

As for these genre films, there are so many to choose from, you can also forget about Milan and simply enjoy the excesses of filmmakers like Sergio Martino and Fernando DiLeo (many of whose films are also set in Milan!).   

Traditional churches in the "modern world" don't generate the kind of curiosity and wonder one feels inside the ancient churches of Europe and perhaps especially among the multitude of them in Italy.

SANT'EUSTORGIO, in the piazza of the same name, in the evocative Porta Ticinese quarter of Milan, is actually said to house the remains of the mythic 3 Kings in the "Cappella dei Magi."

The church itself, which dates back to the 4th and 9th centuries, is dark and fascinating, and the relics of the Magi are said to have been brought there in the 1100s.  Further footnotes claim they were later removed and partially returned in the early 1900s.  Partially returned?  Does that mean only one King remains --- or parts of each?  Nevertheless, the sarcaphogus remains massive and impressive, and I can only hope the church custodian has removed the mop, bucket and broom he was leaning against it upon my last visit!

Perhaps even more interesting inside the church is the separate CAPPELLA PORTINARI, completely frescoed by the Lombardian master Vincenzo Foppa in the late 1400s.  The style is friendly, colorful yet devout and the subject is St. Peter Martyr (whose tomb dominates the chapel).  Now completely restored, it's well worth the admission price.

The best street market in Milan, and probably the best one I've ever been to, is held on Tuesdays and Saturdays on VIA PAPINIANO.  Tuesday mornings are less crowded but Saturdays promise more stock.

HIGHLIGHT:  SHOES!  A recent sighting included real Italian shoes from EUR 8!  Get ready for high quality at EUR 35 or even less!

HOW TO GET THERE: Nothing could be easier.  Take the Green Line subway/underground to the SANT'AGOSTINO stop and simply exit and enter the market which dominates Via Papiniano.

WHEN: Tuesday mornings to early afternoon (say, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.)

          Saturdays, from 9 a.m. to late afternoon (say, 5 p.m.)

WARNING:  Watch out for pushy patrons ready to wring your neck in order to get at something before you do!

ADVICE: Take it all in on Saturdays and then wander over to the FIERA DI SENIGALLIA Flea Market just up the road, in walking distance, near the P.ta. Genova subway stop (for more details, see my posting for the Fiera di Senigallia!).

WHEN: Saturdays, from 9 a.m. to late afternoon

WHERE: Off Via Valenza and Alzaia Naviglio Grande

HOW-TO-GET-THERE:  Take the subway/underground Green Line to P.ta. Genova.  Upon exiting turn right and walk up Via Valenza.  Where Via Valenza converges with Alzaia Naviglio Grande, turn right and walk downwards into what looks like a parking lot and/or warehouse space.  Continue onwards towards the sellers and the stands.

DESCRIPTION:  Divided into two wide aisles with stands on all sides, expect to find the unexpected as well as 2nd-hand clothes, used bicycles, CDs and DVDs (both new and used), shoe sellers,  used books (mostly Italian language), household supplies from soaps to tools, a minimum of true antiques but lots of bric-a-brac.

Unfortunately, there aren't a lot of snacks.  But proceed back to the P.ta. Genova area for a major assortment, or another alternative, walk back via the Naviglio (the canal) for bars, restaurants, more shops and more snacks.

Back before "lurid" became fashionable, the Old Masters, under the guise of mythology, Bible History, or the iconography of the Church, often produced obsessive, startling and graphic works --- many of which were first unveiled to the public inside the local churches.

1. Bramantino/ Crucifixion: A ghostly vision with even an airborn demon paying his respects.  Note the skull at the foot of the mourners, the drenching blue-gray coloring, the almost modern-looking cityscape seemingly carrying us out into the future.

2.  Tanzio da Varallo/ The Martyrdom of the Franciscans at Nagasaki: As scary as it sounds.  Referring to an elusive mass-martyrdom circa 1600, the chaos in foreground leading to the straight, diminishing lines of crosses in the background give the work a ghastly sense of predestination.

3. Battistello (Caracciolo)/ Christ and the Samaritan Woman at the Well: Not only do the two of them appear to be meeting in the middle of the night (which has swallowed the well), the woman's rather ferocious furrowed brow turns the table on the beseeching Christ --- "salvation" a bitter pill to swallow.

4. Ercole de Roberti/ Portuense Altarpiece: Massive Madonna-and-Saints with magnificent details to justify the grandeur.  Note the heightened clarity of the fringe of the carpet (!) as if pointing us underneath the throne towards a vast, nebulous landscape that seems untouched by the "light of God."

5. Cosmè Tura/ Christ Crucified: A miniature --- blotched, unfocused --- the Christ pitched forward, diagonally, as if set to fly off the cross with the fury of a vampire bat.

6. Morazzone/ St. Francis in Ecstasy: An "ecstasy" that nevertheless has scared him to death.  He's quaking!

7. Sebastiano Ricci/ Martyrdom of Saint Erasmus: Often attributed to Magnasco, the master of torture chambers, a gruesome disembowelling has begun and nobody is spared!

8. Giuseppe Maria Crespi/ Self-Portrait: The artist, whose paintings are often morbid yet ironic, has pictured himself as an aging, insidious imp.  The black hat gives him an unholy --- and dishevelled --- halo.

9. Marco d'Oggiono/ Elevation of the Magdalene:  Frolicing naked in the clouds under bushels of curls, Mary Magdalene seems more like Mae West heeding the Lord's command to come up and see Him sometime.

10. Andrea Previtali/ Transfiguration: A cotton-candy Christ perched on a hilltop as if ready to oust Julie Andrews from The Sound of Music.

Although the Brera collection warrants a Top 100, here's a Top 10 list of masterpieces not to be missed (and look for an additional Top 10 list, "Brera Offbeat: The Other Side of the Old Masters").

1. Giovanni Bellini/ Madonna and Child (1510):  Late period Bellini and "late" means luminous, melting colors with the central figures cushioned by a lush, placid dreamscape landscape.

2. Andrea Mantegna/ The Dead Christ:  The famed foreshortening of the dead Christ's body --- haunting, stark, almost monochromatic, virtuosic.

3. Piero della Francesca/ Brera Altarpiece:  A Virgin-Child-Saints "sacra conversazione" renowned for its ornate architectural setting with its seashell ceiling, the muted, silvery colors, its aura of mystic space.

4. Raphael/ Marriage of the Virgin: A fresh and refined, beautifully balanced masterwork --- all controlled sweetness and structure.

5. Luca Signorelli/ Flagellation:  Signorelli's "miniature" is intricately detailed yet the effect is smudged, rushed, horrifying.

6. Caravaggio/ Supper at Emmaus:  The gravity, the gestures and the darkness --- Caravaggio's guess-who's-coming-to-dinner mystery.

7. Tintoretto/ The Finding of the Body of St. Mark:  One of a series; the viewer is struck by the dramatic poses, the sheen of the night, the deepening space --- we're sucked into a nightmare.

8. Donato Bramante/ Christ at the Column:  The Renaissance architect's take on Jesus Christ as human being.  Rugged torso, vulnerable everyman's face --- bold and iconic.

9.  Annibale Carracci/ The Samaritan Woman at the Well:  A magical rendering, pure storybook art.  Formal and elegant yet spacious, graceful, sensual.

10. Veronese/Christ in the Garden of Gethsemene:  That master of epic decoration doing an unusually lyrical, intimate nocturne (but don't miss the dazzling, grandiose "Supper in the House of Simon").

Although Italians are not one of the biggest people, I am not the largest person alive myself either and in order to see something, I used my toes every once in a while. When the two Milan goals were made, I feared for the survival of the cathedral. The goal by Liverpool I didn't even notice!

After the match (to leave nothing in doubt... Milan won), the town was (like normal here) completely crazy. Those that dared to go on the street, must have at least discovered 5 different damaged spots the next day. On the other hand, this was the perfect night for thieves... One of my friend misses a phone now, another one his pictures and camera.

Anyway, an important soccer match here... Definitely don't miss it. No mather what team you're fan of.
 
Pim Zeekoers

I bought my tickets in March. At 9.00 AM the ticket sale would start so I installed myself behind the computer, having all possible information ready. Credit card, codice fiscale, my address, phone number... I had been told that it would go very fast. 8.45 I noticed the sale was in preparation and at 9.00 the site was too busy!! I couldn't get through!! So I refreshed, refreshed... It took about 1 minute for every page to load. I wanted to visit the premiere and when I clicked "BUY" I could see that already 25% was sold. After having completed the form, clicked "BUY" I already was too late! There was only 1 seat left for the price class I wanted. Anyway, I managed to buy two tickets for the week after the premiere, in 9 crazy minutes. After 15 minutes all shows were almost sold out.

Now, I noticed that during the months that followed, new seats became available so sold out does not necessarily mean sold out. But if you want to be sure... be prepared!

The Theatre itself is beautiful and you will not find annoying commercial posters like you may find in cinemas. Everybody is dressed up very nice. You can hardly overdress, you'll be easier under dressed.

The ballet (approximately 3 hours) was wonderful. Very nice costumes as well. During the two breaks (30 minutes each) you will have a wonderful time watching the people pass by wearing all beautiful latest Italian fashion. You will also notice how many children visit the ballets, but they make no noise at all (like you will experience during a mass in the Duomo).

To conclude... It is indeed very hard to get a ticket but once you succeeded, you will have an evening to remember for every. Be sure to dress nice, do not be late and do not make pictures with your flash. My last tip: You may hear people scream words towards the dancers... Bravo! (for a male dancer), Brava! (for a female dancer) and Bravi! (for female and male together).

Pim Zeekoers

Website Teatro alla Scala:
http://www.teatroallascala.org

It was not my first time in Hollywood yesterday night. In fact, I have been there four times now. Although I always say I don't like it, some friends that love it always make me go in anyway. 20 Euro entrance (two drinks included) doesn't help, but it is the only place where bouncers are more friendly than the staff inside. When you buy your ticket, this process must be very complicated because they do not look you in the eyes. Just pay and move over. Once you get inside, the first thing you notice is the lack of light. Second, you will see there are a lot of angry guys that look they planned a raid. Smiling is not allowed I guess and the few girls inside are more busy trying not to be touched on places they do not find normal by guys that pretend this is a normal way of being inside Hollywood.

Now, Hollywood has, as many other clubs, a VIP area. A couple of weeks ago I got in there with a friend of mine and the atmosphere was actually pretty good. More relaxed, more places to sit (actually, in the 'normal' part there are only a very few seats) and people are more friendly. Although they are a bit arrogant at first, I actually had a good time in there. You will surely not feel the desire of entering the 'normal' part again.

But as it is pretty hard to get into this VIP area, I advise you just to skip Hollywood or go on special nights where entrance is cheaper. Drinks are always 10 euro each and the night here really starts after 01.00.

Hollywood is famous, but maybe that's where it ends as well. I guess I will never be able to explain why people like it, as I just can't understand them either. There are many many more and better places to spend your time and money.

Website of Hollywood: http://www.discotecahollywood.com/

Ciao,

Pim Zeekoers

PS
People may tell you about the toilet, where you can see the other gender through the mirror. It is true, but really not that special. The toilets look more like big Dixies to me.

Although the guides describe a lot of places as heaven on earth, I sometimes want to get away from Milan and everything mentioned in the guides. A place where I will not find myself in tourist traffic jams or surrounded by souvenirs I never wished for. A place where menus are not written in 4 languages and where you just hear Italian on the street.

Yesterday, my girlfriend and I went to Arona. A lovely city with a railway station where the EuroCity stops as well. It was just the place I was looking for. Hardly any tourists, a beautiful boulevard at the Lake of Maggiore and very nice and small city centre between nice green hills and the lake. With a population of less than 15.000, it will be hard to get lost.

Prices are not to compare with Milan. Glass of wine EURO 1,50, mountain bike rental for one day (EURO 10,00) and we got three different maps at the tourist office just for free. The small number of tourist attractions makes it just perfect to visit in one day. One attraction can be skipped. As Napoleon did a wonderful job when destroying the castle (Rocca Borromeo), it is not worth climbing the mountain for anymore. The statue of Saint Charles, on another hill known as Sancarlone and completed in 1698, is very nice to visit. If you are just a little afraid of heights, don't buy the ticket that gives you entrance to the top. The stairs are horrible once you go inside of the statue.

Anyway, to conclude we had a wonderful day there. We took the train back at 20.44 but that was not the last one. Arona is definitely a place worth to visit if you want to escape from being a tourist and just like to enjoy the beautiful hills of Italy.