Off the beaten path: Walking the Canal Saint Martin in Paris
While the Seine may tempt visitors with it's majestic panoramas and sunset boat rides, the Canal Saint Martin in the tenth arrondissement offers an equally interesting view of a lesser known side of Paris. This picturesque waterway stretches three miles from the north-eastern corner of the city to rue Faubourg du Temple, near République. For a pleasant afternoon stroll, head down rue de la Grange aux Belles at the exit of métro Colonel Fabien. Turn right on rue des Ecluses Saint Martin, which will take you to the banks of the canal. Like many less touristic Parisian neighborhoods, the architecture is a hodgepodge of Haussmanian grandeur and 1970s socialist concrete blocks. This grittier side of Paris is flush with funky cafés and art galleries. Stop for a drink at l'Apostrophe-- known for its rock and roll attitude--and you'll be privy to the lively chattering of locals, a rarity in the tourist-heavy Latin quarter.
Continue down rue des Ecluses Saint Martin until you reach the canal. Your first view will be sobering--the canal's wide banks have been dotted with some fifty tents since 2006, part of an initiative by the group Les Enfants de Don Quichotte to bring awareness to the plight of the homeless in Paris. The canal's picturesque bridges and tree-lined banks come into full view as you cross the bridge and head down Quai de Valmy. You can't miss the colorful façade of Antoine et Lili, a déco and clothing boutique. It's a whimsical store, but be prepared to spend a lot if the designer clothing tempts you. Farther down the quay, rue de Lancry is home to the wine bar Verre Volé and several funky clothing shops, not to mention a plethora of Mediterranean and Middle-Eastern delis and grocery stores. Cross one of the arching bridges for a peek at the locks before heading down avenue Richerand to the elegant courtyard in the center of Hôpital Saint Louis. Stop for a picnic on one of the benches and admire the stone architecture reminiscent of Place des Vosges in the center of Paris.
Retrace your steps back to the canal and continue down either bank to rue du Faubourg du Temple. You won't find impressive cathedrals or historical monuments, but you will see an authentic corner of the city where people work and live. Keep an eye out for little gems like Mukura, a colorful South-American café, or the design library Artazart. Take a right on rue Fbg du Temple and you'll find yourself conveniently placed at métro République.
L'Apostrophe
23, Rue Grange aux Belles
75010 Paris
01 42 08 26 07 ...
Les Enfants de Don Quichotte
http://www.hic-net.org/articles.asp?PID=651
Antoine et Lili
95, quai de Valmy
75010 Paris
01 40 37 41 55
Le Verre Volé
67 rue de Lancry
75010 Paris
Tél. : 01.48.03.17.34
Mukura
79, Quai de Valmy
75010 Paris
Tel : 01 42 01 18 67
