A trip to the top of the world, in the center of Paris
The sky was grey and threatening rain as I hurried down rue de l'Estrapade in search of lunch. The first drops began to fall as I opened the door to Tashi Delek, a Tibetan restaurant nestled on the narrow rue des Fossées Saint Jacques. I parted the folds of a brightly hued curtain and left the cold winter streets and pattering rain behind for a warm dining room and the low murmur of a Buddhist choir. According to their menu, Tashi Delek was the first Tibetain restaurant in Paris, founded in 1988. The name translates loosely to something like 'auspicious greetings', a fitting name for an establishment with friendly staff and satisfying food.
The dishes appear simple, but the menu offers an ample selection of appetizers, main courses, desserts and side dishes at reasonable prices, as well as the 'Tibetan Bowls', an intriguing combination of pasta, cheese, vegetables and meat (optional). Vegetarians will be delighted at the selection of meat-free main dishes and soups, like tsamtouk, composed of roasted barley flour, spinach, carrots and goat cheese. Meat eaters will not be disappointed with main courses like shariltsel, a meatball and mushroom dish with vegetables and steamed bread.
Ever on the lookout for a cheap lunch menu, I ordered the 10€ lunch special: starter, main dish, small salad, and dessert, beverage not included. I sipped jasmine tea and gazed at the slim golden buddha and marvelous mandala reproduction gracing the walls as I waited for my soup to arrive. The lunch rush hadn't yet begun, so I had the front room to myself. A gong sounded somewhere and my tselthay (veggie soup) appeared at the same moment. I welcomed the simple broth swimming with vegetables. I added salt, but just enough to emphasize the carrots, zuccini, cauliflower and other tender morsels floating among the coriander and tomato.
The main course came in a two-tiered bamboo cooker, still wafting steam: seven vegetable and cheese raviolis and a carrot coriander sauce. They were surprisingly hearty and filling, despite their 'good for you' appearance. I detected goat cheese and spinach, with a hint of garlic and bites of cauliflower. There were no muddy flavors or mushy vegetables to contend with; just delicate flavors and wholesome ingredients. A light salad of carrots and bean sprouts with a drizzle of creamy ginger dressing rounded everything out nicely.
I was afraid I wouldn't have room for dessert, but the rice pudding was too tempting. I am thoroughly glad I made room! This is one of my favorite desserts and Tashi Delek makes one of the best varieties I've tried. It's creamy, but not thick, with hints of cardamom and cinnamon and sprinkled with dried apricots and raisins. Several spoonfuls in I discovered something like pine-nuts as well, a delightful addition that would never have occurred to me.
By the time I finished it was almost one, and the lunch crowd was pouring in faster than the rain outside. Feeling inspired by the voyage that new cuisine inevitably entails, I stopped by La Route du Tibet bookstore across the street. I spent at least a half an hour browsing their impressive selection of French and English books, including Buddhist scriptures, historical works, Zen texts and travelogues. They also have a fine selection of images and traditional artwork specific to Tibetan culture. I left with a paperback edition of Une Parisienne à Lhassa, the story of the first Western woman to explore Tibet.
Since it was still gloomy outside, I headed to the La Route du Tibet boutique around the corner on rue Saint Jacques, where the window is always a rainbow of fabrics and handcrafted jewelry. Almost everything in the store was out of my price range (cashmere sweaters for at least 100€), but the creations are remarkable in their detail and the store is a pleasure to browse.
Two o'clock rolled around at last and I had to head back to Paris. It was nice to find that a trip to the top of the world isn't far, if you know where to go. Next time you're looking for something to shake up the bread and cheese routine, try Tashi Delek and surprise yourself.
Tashi Delek
4, Rue des Fossées Saint Jacques, 75005
Tel : 01 43 26 55 55
La Route du Tibet
(boutique)
198, Rue St Jacques
75005
Tel: [33] (1) 43 54 37 00
(bookstore)
3, Rue des Fossées Saint Jacques, 75005
