Save It for a Rainy Day: Books and tea in Paris
Sunlight in Paris is glorious, the way it shines on ancient stone and glitters across the Seine. But my secret favorite is rain. A day that awakens to the steady patter of raindrops on a windowpane is guaranteed to be a good one. Forget the slick sidewalks and puddles lurking at every curb; it's the nooks and crannies of twisting streets that shine on rainy days. Bibliophiles and tea-drinkers alike will find Paris brimming with excitement on the wettest of afternoons. My preferred rainy day activity is to spend the morning poking around the shelves of a used book store and the afternoon tucked in a corner with a hot cup of tea. I've compiled a (growing) list of English bookstores and cozy cafés that go well together. Most of them I found while wandering around on sunny days. Now every time the sky looks grey, I pick an address and settle in; it's like having old friends in every corner of the city. You'll only see Anglophone bookstores in this review, so don't be shy when you stop in. The owners are friendly, and I know for a fact they have some very good suggestions for getting out of the guidebook and into the heart of the city. Happy reading!
The San Francisco Book Company, 17, rue Monsieur le Prince M°Odeon 01 43 29 15 70
This tiny bookstore is right up the street from the carrefour de l'Odeon, in the quartier Saint Germain. It's literally stuffed with books, from the floor to the ceiling and every flat surface in between. All their books are used and in English, and sold at very reasonable prices. Recent purchase: Lord of the Flies, 6€
http://www.sanfranciscobooksparis.com
The Abbey Bookstore, 29, rue de la Parcheminerie tel. 01 46 33 16 24 M°Cluny La Sorbonne
This might be my favorite bookstore in Paris (so far). Owned by a Canadian, this morsel of a bookstore offers both new and used books, specializing in English and French-Canadian literature. Ask Brian, the proprietor, about joining the Canadian Club of Paris (you don't have to be Canadian). You'll get updates on book readings and the language exchange/pub night, as well as the monthly Sunday hike in the countryside. Recent purchase: The Wind Up Bird Chronicle, 12.95€
Tea and Tattered Pages, 24 rue Mayet, M° Duroc, tel. 01 40 65 94 35
Open Monday-Saturday 11am-7pm and Sundays from noon-6pm
Another literary gem tucked away in Paris, Tea and Tattered Pages sells thousands of English second-hand books. Find out about upcoming poetry readings and then settle yourself in the tea room with a pot of Earl Grey and a cookie.
http://www.teaandtatteredpages.com/
Shakespeare and Company, 37 rue de la Bücherie tel. 01 43 25 40 93 M°St Michel
This is the English bookstore on the left bank that everyone says to visit for its historical significance. Someone told me Hemingway used to kill pigeons in the park across the street. I can't verify that, but it's true that this charmingly shabby little bookstore is a labyrinth of used and new spines and pages just itching to be picked up. Ask about the Tumbleweed Hotel. If you're interested in rare books, there's a specialist right next door. I find their prices a little steep, but if you're just browsing, there's plenty to fill an afternoon.
http://www.shakespeareco.org/
La Pharmacie, 22, r Jean Pierre Timbaud M°Oberkampf 01 43 38 04 99
This cozy restaurant near Bastille serves organic vegetarian fare in a relaxed atmosphere that encourages slow sipping. Treat yourself to a healthy hearty meal or pull up a chair around one of the low coffee tables and enjoy a brazilian maté or a fair trade café au lait. They sell a commendable variety of tea in bulk, so if you just couldn't get enough of the oolong, you can take some home with you. For something exotic, try the kombucha or the lassi salé, with salt and cumin. Recent purchase: Maté, 4.50€
http://www.lapharmacie.net
Galerie 88, 88, quai Hôtel de Ville, M° Hôtel de Ville tel. 01 42 72 17 58
This petit café situated between the Seine and the Hôtel de Ville features an art gallery in the basement and a steaming ginger-honey concoction perfect for keeping away the winter chills. Satisfy your afternoon rumblings with a fruit tart or tapas. Don't be put off by the lack of elbow room; they usually play good jazz or blues and the eclectic decor suggests 'cozy' rather than crowded. 88 is a bit of novelty in the historic heart of Paris.
Le Quincampe, 78 rue Quincampoix, M° Rambuteau tel. 01 40 27 01 45
Just around the corner from the Pompidou is a narrow little street lined with art galleries and salons de thé. It's where you'll find Le Quincampe, an intimate café with a North African flair. Sink into the couch in the back room with a pot of thé des poétes and a slice of chocolate cake. Or opt for an oriental pastry with a dusting of powdered sugar. If you're a little hungrier, one of their unique salads or a classic chévre chaud (hot goat cheese on toast) will do the trick. Bring a friend and play backgammon by the low light of an art deco lamp or warm yourself by the fire in winter. This place is a must visit, if only for the atmosphere.
