Sydney's Best Thai - Balgowlah's Khao Thai
Often I find the failings of a restaurant can be forgiven by the company you dine with. Knowing full well that I would be thoroughly entertained by my dinner companions, I was not concerned over the choice of venue this particular evening. After a short walk along Sydney Road, the majority was pleased to stop in at Khao Thai (367 Sydney Road Balgowlah ph: +61 2 9948 2925).
When first entering the long dining room you are drawn to the various tanks of decorative fish. This is a nice change from many Chinese restaurants where the tanks of various edible treats swimming that last mile before they "win" the competition to become the centre of attention on your plate. In Khao Thai, the lighting is also dim but still strong enough to read the menu, and what a menu it is. Page after page of clear and enticing items, both in print and full colour images. With many people still exploring various cuisines, this is a great way to help them with their selection. Unfortunately it just inspires me to want it all.
As I mentioned, I was not alone and my fellow diners curbed my desire to sample everything the menu had to offer.
Entree was to be a selection of Curry Puffs, Chicken Satay and Fish Cakes. I must make special mention of the Fish Cakes. For someone who isn't too fussed about the humble medallions, I was very impressed. I never understood how Fish Balls (usually found in Asian soups) could contain so much flavour compared to the rubbery and flavour lacking Fish Cakes. The people at Khao obviously feel the same way and decided to do something about it. Packed with real fish flavour and a great texture, they were a delight. Unfortunately the Curry Puffs were slightly soggy with an over moist filing, but the Chicken Satay was perfectly balanced, and combined with the Fish Cakes, I wasn't complaining.
While I am always happy to try a blackboard special, I very rarely will indulge in a “Chefs Suggestion”. This chef was suggesting a Penang Curry with Duck, my favourite Thai curry partnered with the decadent, if not devilish, rich poultry. Unlike the Fish Cakes, this little black duck was highly anticipated by all concerned. We were expecting something great. To offset the anticipated richness of the Penang Duck we set our sights on a Lemongrass Pork and a Beef with Cashew Nuts all accompanied by Saffron Rice.
Luckily (or unluckily, depending on how you look at it) the Penang Duck was as good, if not better, than expected. The Penang Curry was not as rich as I am used to, but this was a perfect combination with its copious and luxurious pieces of duck combined with the sweetness of stir fried red capsicum and rich coconut. With a fresh and clean alternative to the thick curry, the Lemongrass Pork and the Beef and Cashew Nuts were both flavourful and tasty. I was disappointed with my second serving of the Saffron Rice. It was served on an open platter and, exposed to the air, quickly lost its texture.
We enjoyed our meal with a bottle of Wontanella Sangiovese Petit Verdot 2004, from our own cellar. This is a richly coloured, although soft flavoured wine that goes with almost anything (very handy when you don’t know where you are going to eat).
If you are faced with the prospect of an evening with less than inspiring company, Khao Thai will certainly provide a meal that can conquer the most boring of companions. This is a great place to take family or friends for a communal meal that will inspire and satisfy.
